"How was man created, in the view of Islam? First, God addresses the angels, saying, 'I want to create a vice-regent for Myself upon Earth.' See how great is the value of man according to Islam? Even the post-Renaissance humanism of Europe has never been able to conceive of such exalted sanctity for man. The angels cried out, saying, 'you wish to create one who will engage in bloodshed, crime, hatred and vengeance.' But God replies, 'I know something that you do not know'."
Ali Shari'ati, an influential Iranian thinker who inspired many of the revolution's
supporters. He died in 1977.

Dear friends,

In Iran it's considered rude to turn your back to someone. If you're in the back seat of a car and someone gets in the front, they apologize to you for their back. You might respond, "Gol poshto ru nadawreh" - "a flower has no front or back."

Hussein is a soft spoken man, kind and polite. He makes a good living. He and his family live in a nice apartment in north Tehran. The furnishings are modern and, when you're inside you feel you could be in any developed country in the world. Hussein and his wife are giving up their comfortable life in Iran to build a new life overseas. They're doing this for their children whom they want to have a better education and better career opportunities. They also want to live a freer society. "This government, "Hussein tells me, "practices radical Islam," "but Iranians are not radicals." By ‘radical' Hussein isn't talking about terrorism. He means the Iranian government's attempts to dictate how people should live according to Islam.

Hussein is more in tune with Iranian thinkers like Ali Shari'ati who argued that religion is a personal matter, not something to be imposed on others through a political system. Hussein doesn't seem particularly political, he's just someone who wants to live and let live.

Iran is experiencing one of the biggest "brain drains" of any nation in the world. Talented and skilled people are leaving, if they can. Iranians are not welcome in many places and I'm told that unless you have a lot of money or skills in demand somewhere else, it's hard to emigrate. A man told me today that if this continues, someday "only workers will be left in Iran". At that point, he says Iran's economy will be wholly dependent on other nations. This man says his father is very religious and was a big supporter of the revolution. But his father, too, is leaving. Iran will be poorer for the loss of Hussein and people like him.

I had dinner last night with a group of young bohemians. They live in a wealthy section of northwest Tehran. Their place was decorated with tapestries, hand-made furniture and beautiful Persian carpets. Incense burned and world music played as women danced. A delicious vegetarian meal was served. The talk was easy and non-political. I sat on the patio and listened to the crickets chirp. It seemed odd to hear a sound that wasn't made by an internal combustion engine. Listening to the crickets and seeing a few stars scattered overhead I felt a pang of homesickness.

Taking a cab back to the hotel, we drove by the parks in north Tehran. They were still full of people - even at 1:30 in the morning. They were having picnics and strolling under the sycamores that march in a crowded line along the streets of this affluent section of Tehran, keeping them in shade during the day.

Near my hotel in central Tehran it was quiet except for the street sweepers in their orange jumpsuits and wielding witch brooms. I'm told they are Afghan refugees. It seems they work all night. In the darkness, the cab swerved around a dazed-looking man crouched in the road. An addict, I think. After the cab got a flat tire I walked the rest of the way to the hotel. The driver wouldn't let me help him change the tire. A man on a motorcycle stopped and offered to give me a ride, but I felt safe walking the streets.

khodahafez,